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Central districts – Districts outside the walls
Rome’s intra-mural districts
The districts of Rome’s historic center are mostly “intra-mural,” meaning located inside the Aurelian Walls, the large Roman enclosure built in the 3rd century AD. Each has its own history and character.
Historically, the city has been divided since the Middle Ages into Rioni, which we mention occasionally but which are not always relevant groupings from the visitor’s point of view.
This division evolved over time. Originally, Rome developed among 7 primary hills, with the sacred Capitoline Hill to the west near the Tiber. Enclosed between these hills, the Roman Forum extended to the east, with the Palatine and Caelian hills to the south; the Quirinal, Viminal and Esquiline hills to the north.
To the northwest of this original center, the vast Campus Martius was urbanized from the end of the Republic, then Augustus defined the regiones of the city to include urban expansions beyond the Servian walls of the time, extending over the hills and beyond the Tiber with the Transtiberium. Later, the Aurelian Walls roughly enclosed these regiones, the origin of the medieval Rioni.
Aventine and Testaccio
The Aventine hill, inhabited by plebeians during the Republic, then occupied by patrician villas under the Empire, is now a very quiet residential district with a charming garden, its panorama and the basilicas of Santa Sabina and Santa Sabina on the small Aventine. It was also—and still is—the domain of the Knights of the Order of Malta.
Testaccio, on the other side of the hill, is a popular and youthful district, frequented in the evenings for its bars and venues (see Aventine and Testaccio district).
Borgo, Prati and Vatican
Just northwest of Rome’s historic center, on the western side of the Tiber, the Borgo precedes the Vatican State with the great square and the St. Peter’s Basilica, the Catholic heart of the world. To the north, Prati is a district spreading over a plain, with its public institutions, offices and residential buildings, well equipped with venues and restaurants (see Borgo, Prati and Vatican district).
Campo, Giulia and Ghetto
In the historic center, between the Capitoline Hill and the Tiber, this plain, urbanized since antiquity, underwent major developments during the Renaissance, with numerous prestigious palaces, beautiful streets and churches along the Via Giulia, or remarkable squares such as Campo de’ Fiori. The small pedestrian Tiber Island lies just opposite the charming historic ghetto which has preserved a Jewish population (see Campo, Giulia and Ghetto district with Tiber Island).
Caelian Hill and Baths of Caracalla
The Caelian, another of the original Roman hills, was occupied by noble residences, temples and a military barracks under the Empire. Now, the housing is scattered and the land occupied by green spaces, hospitals and some churches. Below, the Baths of Caracalla have retained the majestic structures of these grand baths (see Caelian and Caracalla district).
Ancient Center (Forum, Capitoline Hill, Colosseum)
This area of the city is the densest in ancient buildings. Sacred hill of antiquity, the Capitoline Hill remains the heart of Rome, with its splendid square and museums, overlooking the plain of the Forums which extend up to the great Colosseum. The Palatine is the hill where the legend places the founding of Rome, where sumptuous imperial villas were built. South of the Piazza Venezia and the large Vittoriano, the Forum Boarium runs along the Tiber where the port was located and joins the famous Mouth of Truth (see Ancient Center district).
Piazza di Spagna and Villa Borghese District
The Campus Martius plain originally served as a training ground for Roman armies, then was urbanized under the empire. It is the northern part of the historic center, with streets inherited from the Renaissance, rich in palaces, churches, and squares like the Piazza del Popolo and especially the Spanish Steps. These lie below the Pincian Hill and the vast Villa Borghese park (see the Piazza di Spagna, Villa Borghese, and Ludovisi district).
Lateran and Esquiline
From the Caelian Hill to the Esquiline, southeast of the Colosseum, is the area of the Basilica of St. John Lateran, the cathedral of Rome, which then extends over the Esquiline along the Aurelian Walls up to the Porta Maggiore, and in the Termini district up to the cosmopolitan Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (see Lateran and Esquiline district).
Monti
Occupying several hills of Rome — including the Esquiline, Oppian, and Viminal — the streets of Monti are lively and come alive in the evening, frequented by both tourists and Romans. This area corresponds to the ancient Subura, the slums of Rome in Roman times. In this district, rich in numerous and varied bars and restaurants, one also finds very beautiful churches (see Monti district).
Esquiline with Termini and Repubblica
On the Esquiline hill, the Termini train station area is more popular and cosmopolitan than the historic center. It houses grand buildings like the Basilica of Saint Mary Major or the Baths of Diocletian, near the modern Piazza della Repubblica which connects to the Viminal Hill (see Termini district on the Esquiline and Castro Pretorio).
Navona and Pantheon
This is probably the area of Rome’s historic center densest in buildings and architectures of all periods, especially Renaissance and Baroque, but also antiquity, with its remarkable squares including the incomparable Piazza Navona, prestigious palaces and churches, and the extraordinary Pantheon, almost unchanged from its original state. Walking through this maze of alleys is always enjoyable, even though some are constantly trodden by tourists (see area around Navona, area around the Pantheon).
Trastevere and Janiculum
On the other side of the Tiber, the Trastevere district was long somewhat neglected and has always had its own identity. With its typical alleys and small shops, it has become trendy over the last twenty years for evening outings. Pleasant small squares, pizzerias, and welcoming restaurants contribute to the charm of this district, separated from its quieter eastern part by the Viale Trastevere. To the west rises the Janiculum hill, known for its viewpoint over the city (see Trastevere district, including the Janiculum).
Trevi and Quirinal
The Quirinal hill, one of the city’s original hills, is occupied by the vast presidential palace and some churches. On its slopes and below are other fine palaces, museums, churches, many shops, as well as a major city attraction with the highly baroque Trevi Fountain (see Quirinal and Trevi district).
Districts Outside the Walls of Rome
Rome is a very large city beyond the Aurelian Walls, reaching to the coast of Ostia, on a heterogeneous territory with a number of parks, natural and river reserves, and even agricultural zones.
Given the significant urban expansion of the era, new districts were defined in 1921, modified in 1961. Many of them were named after the ancient Roman roads crossing them, leaving Rome through historic gates and often becoming major traffic routes.
Generally, these Roman roads are lined with substantial antiquity remains, such as tombs and catacombs. It remained countryside until the late 19th century when modern urbanism began radically to change the landscape, relatively stabilizing by mid-20th century (see Quartieri di Roma on Wikipedia).
Here, we identify districts generally by the name of the Roman roads crossing them. Each has developed its own identity over time, according to their geography, type of developments and populations settled, and their social and popular history.
Appia and Tuscolana
This is an opportunity for one of the most notable visits outside the walls of Rome, with the Appian Way Archaeological Park running along this Roman road for many kilometers, the main catacombs of the city, and several remarkable adjacent parks. Between the large avenues of Tuscolana and Appia Nuova, it is a modern district urbanized during the 20th century, where the important Cinecittà studios were established.
Pigneto and Prenestino
The Via Prenestina leads away from Rome through Porta Maggiore, first passing through the Pigneto district, which has been one of the liveliest parts of the city for at least two decades, with associations, artists, bars, and a rich nightlife. Further on are mainly residential and working-class neighborhoods of Prenestino and Centocelle, developed during the 20th century.
San Lorenzo and Tiburtino
Just beyond the Aurelian Walls near Termini station, San Lorenzo is a district of popular culture and historically antifascist, now a student area with the seat of La Sapienza University, lively in the evening with many bars and clubs. It also contains the very old basilica of Saint Lawrence Outside the Walls and the monumental cemetery of Vomero.
Nomentana and Salaria
To the northeast of the city, Via Salaria and Via Nomentana were important Roman routes that today cross residential neighborhoods, including the fanciful Art Nouveau urban complex of Coppedè. The Salaria borders the south of the large public park of Villa Ada, passes by the catacombs of Priscilla, and reaches the Aniene river. Along the Nomentana, one can also visit the Villa Torlonia and the complex of Saint Agnes.
Flaminio, Olimpico, Parioli
Heading north of Rome from Porta del Popolo, Via Flaminia runs along the Tiber and crosses neighborhoods built mostly during the 20th century: Flaminio to the west, with several museums and former industries, Pinciano and Parioli to the east with multiple embassies, the park of Villa Borghese, an Olympic village, and the Auditorium.
Della Vittoria, Trionfale and Montemario
Between the hill of Montemario to the west with its panorama and nature reserve, and the Tiber to the east, the plain of the Della Vittoria district (formerly called Milvio) mixes institutions and residences, with to the north the sports facilities of the Foro Italico, including the football stadium and others, some dating back to the fascist era.
Monteverde, Portuense and Aurelia
On the Janiculum hill west of Trastevere, the Aurelian Walls were crossed by the Via Aurelia. It is now an elegant district of Monteverde Alto near the large public park of Villa Pamphilj. Below, lower Monteverde (or Gianicolense) and along Via Portuense are livelier and more popular.
Ostiense, Ardeatino, EUR and Garbatella
To the south of Rome, the Roman road led to the port of Ostia on the coast. It now crosses former industrial neighborhoods, passes by the major basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls and near the pleasant residential area of Garbatella, before reaching further on the E.U.R., a large urban area planned rationally during the fascist period with notable buildings and museums.